Dinners & Lahars

The end of term is quickly approaching, and with all of next week taken up by sports activities at Montserrat Secondary School, I have finished all my teaching for this term. Speaking of which, it's been astoundingly fast how my time here has flown; it's hard to believe that I've been here for nearly three months now and I still find this island as fascinating as I did when I first arrived.

A lot of people who've lived here for awhile say that Montserrat is amazing to visit, but sometimes a challenge to live in. I'm not going to start weighing the pros and cons here, but I think having a purpose whilst living here does make it more enjoyable, and in my case this is proven to be a worthwhile effort. The Montserrat Youth Choir did another stellar performance, this time for the Rotary charter dinner which was held to raise funds for music resources on the island. The choir certainly did me proud, and I think they have managed to convince guests that their money will be certainly put into a worthy cause.

Demand for instrumental teaching continues to grow, but so far I have been stretched in terms of being able to offer individual one-to-one keyboard and piano lessons after school. I will be touching on this issue in my end of term report to the ministry, as I feel quite strongly about being able to equip students with basic instrumental skills in order to encourage them to explore their own musicality.

Earlier this month a group of MVO staff and myself (no, I'm not affiliated with MVO in any way) drove up the Belham river valley - for me, it was more of a sightseeing trip, but the MVO staff were there to take photos as part of some ongoing research. The Belham valley truly is an impressive sight - it has been devastated be repeated lahar flow, and much of what used to stand in the valley, such as hotels, villas and an entire golf course, are now buried under about 35 feet of hardened mud.

Lahar flows are deadly because of their energy and speed. Large lahar flows move at approximately sixty miles an hour, can flow for more than one hundred and ninety miles, and can cause catastrophic destruction in their path. The lahars from the Nevado del Ruiz eruption in Colombia in 1985 caused the Armero tragedy, which killed an estimated 23,000 when the city of Armero was buried under sixteen feet of mud and debris. New Zealand's Tangiwai disaster in 1953, where 151 people died after a Christmas Eve express train fell into the Whangaehu River, was caused by a lahar.

Here is a video containing some of the sights and sounds (ie. very loud, strong winds) which I captured on the Belham.


Having seen the valley from certain viewpoints previously did not quite prepare me for the scale of standing in the middle of it. Two days ago, the volcano started venting ash, reaching about 6,000 feet above sea level, approximately 3,000 feet above the volcano) - this activity was similar to activity previously observed prior to heavier volcanic activity, as last observed in 2008. However, the volcano has since calmed down, so I suppose that's about all the 'excitement' I'll get to witness.

Soufriere Hills Volcano venting ash.

I drove to Old Towne during my lunch break on Friday to snap this photo, being quite excited about witnessing volcanic activity (however mild). However, the locals didn't even bat an eyelid - and after seeing what has happened to the Belham river valley, I'm not surprised.

Veils & Shamrocks

Last week gone has been an ultimately busy week - it was St Patrick's on Saturday, and let me tell you, St. Patrick's really is a big thing in Montserrat! A week-long festival which started last Monday saw myself conducting the secondary school choir for their debut performance, playing with Volpanics in what was my first ever steel pan gig, dance behind a truck loaded with massive speakers moving at half a mile an hour (this is called a jump up!), embark on a rum shop tour, crash a stage where the string band was playing (well, not quite: I just grabbed a pair of shakers and edged in), and eat lots of food. Glorious, Caribbean food!

More pictures of these all to follow. But first, last night was the Emerald Community Singers' annual cabaret performance (as part of St Paddy's festival), and the Chinese folk dance quartet finally had their chance to showcase their moves in complete splendor. This folksong is native of the Xinjiang region in China, where majority of the region's total population adheres to Islam. This lyrics describe a young lady whose beautiful features are covered by a veil, and she is being edged on by the singer to reveal some of her alluring facial features, while he extols her resplendent qualities in song.


This item was performed by Gerren Gerrald, Beth Breuer, Vicky Wilson and Cupid Francis, with Sujue Davis providing artistic advisory and myself playing music man, of course.

Royals & Masquerades

The previous Friday, 2 Mar 2012, was the day of the royal visit by the Earl and Countess of Wessex, who spent a day at Montserrat as part of the The Queen's Diamond Jubilee Tour. This was to be one of the royal couple's stops on their nine-country tour around the Caribbean. This was, of course, big news for the island - weeks of preparation were dedicated during the lead-up to this visit, although I must admit the biggest benefit I received from all this was that all the pot-holes on the road were being filled - albeit only those that were on the 'royal route'.

Prince Eddie and Princess Sophie got off on a busy morning start, after mooring off the coast of Montserrat - an RFA ship which I'm sure has been outfitted for more luxurious guests. Well, better than a luxury yacht, given these times of austerity. Activities amongst their tour included an investiture, the opening of the Little Bay market (which I hear has been 'opened' for what is the sixth time now - every time a royal visit occurs, the market is opened, even though the market is never used on a regular basis), a visit to the MVO and watching a primary school steel orchestra at Blakes football field. I was present at the last event, just to soak up a bit of the royal atmosphere, wave a flag and generally be a good empire subject.

Children welcoming the royal couple.

My MSS students in the masquerade get-up.

The primary school pan orchestra in the background.

There was also a masquerade dance performance presented to the royal couple, something which I gathered seems to be a uniquely Montserratian dance tradition. It is both a ritual and celebratory element of folk music, with dancers donning bright costumes, voluminous adornments, colourful masks and even a whip. It 'whipper' appears to be the 'leader' of the dance, summoning and dismissing different dancers in the ensemble. This dance is accompanied on the fife and drums.

Masquerade dancers performing for the royal couple.

The popular prince.

And after twelve short hours, the earl and countess headed back to their ship before setting off for what I believe was St Kitts, where they would be treated to a somewhat similar programme. Must be hard, the life of a royal!

Effort & Legacy

Earlier in the week I had the pleasure of heading over to Isles Bay to have dinner with Gordon and Sylvie Young, who are currently on island for a short break. Gordon is the chairman of The Montserrat Foundation (UK), which, of course, is the charity that has been managing this entire project. After some very fine, exquisite French fare (whipped up by Sylvie herself, no less) - which is certainly a treat in these places - Gordon put on a DVD of Music for Montserrat, a concert which was held on 15 September 1997 at the Royal Albert Hall.

What so special about this concert was that it featured a plethora of famous musicians who previously recorded at AIR Studios in Montserrat, including Phil Collins, Sting, Eric Clapton, Elton John, Paul McCartney, Carl Perkins and Paul McCartney. Music for Montserrat was arranged and produced by Sir George Martin, and proceeds from the concert were used for disaster relief after a major eruption of the Soufrière Hills volcano the year before. These musicians agreed to appear, out of their own pocket, to raise the necessary funds for the sake of Montserrat. Below is a video of the show's finale, featuring a line-up of stellar artists singing Hey Jude. If anyone could have brought the likes of Sting, Elton John, Paul McCartney, Eric Clapton and so many more together on-stage to perform at the same time, it would have had to be George himself.

AIR Studios in Montserrat was also set up by Sir George Martin, who himself fell in love with (and still continues to play a huge part in the development of) Montserrat. It's main purpose was meant to be a get-away-from-it-all sort of studio, and saw many famous faces walk through its doors until it was finally destroyed by Hurricane Hugo in 1989.

Over the weekend I had the chance to visit what now remains of AIR Studios, located near the Belham Valley. It certainly looks like a ghost of its former self, but one can still certainly appreciate the legacy and the charm it must have held over its many visitors.

The entrance of AIR Montserrat.

Pool included for all those recording breaks.

All that's now left.

It is a somewhat of a shame that a lot of the island's music legacy as been lost on the young people here today, as I have observed from my classes. If only the government here could put in a bit more effort in restoring that by starting to spread awareness of the pivotal role Montserrat once played in - if not the development then at least the production - of what we would call iconic rock music today, I am sure the young people here would embrace it proudly.

Things like putting the Montserrat Cultural Centre to better, more intensive use would only serve to benefit the island's heritage. The only time I stopped by at the centre, the second day I got to the island, it was completely locked shut and the area behind the centre looked slightly overgrown. Yet the Montserrat Tourist Board lists the Cultural Centre as one of the tourist spots to visit. This place could be a perfect location to continue the legacy of AIR Studios and the Beatles - to set up a permanent, constantly-manned exhibition might be a good start.