Another post here - after I'd said I would be shutting the blog down. Reason being? I'm here to introduce Rebecca's blog, which she will be maintaining during her 10 months in Montserrat. It's been very interesting to read about her experiences which have somewhat mirrored mine, and I'll definitely be keeping a close eye on all her ongoings! You can read her blog at http://musicalmontserrat.wordpress.com/.
Lately I have been sifting through all my photos taken whilst in Montserrat, feeling great pangs of nostalgia and putting up a few straggling ones on my Montserrat album on Facebook. Looks like there will be more updates on this blog to come!
Saturday, September 15, 2012
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Brilliant & Beautiful
First, Herman "Cupid" Francis is truly the epitome of the Montserrtain spirit - he grew up there and has stuck with Monty all through the various Soufrière eruptions, and now is a vital member in the community who is continually enthusiastic, helpful and loyal. As Director of Culture, he has a massive responsibility in making sure the arts and culture of Montserrat continues to thrive from strength to strength, and also ensures that tourism continues to flourish. Thank you for your help in getting me settled in, in helping to move things along and for helping to get organised when I first stepped off the plane without any much of a clue as to what to do.
Next, I would like to thank the governor of Montserrat and his wife, Adrian & Sujue Davis, for always being such welcoming hosts. If the spirit of Montserrat could be condensed into a brick-and-mortar household, it would be yours - endearing, generous and warm. Thank you for all your help, especially in planning the diamond jubilee recital. Sujue - I will always fondly remember your cooking (and wonder when might be the next chance I get to taste it)!
To everyone whom I met on Montserrat, thank you for showing me such a wonderful time - you have made it essentially a wonderful 7-month working holiday for me. Jo & I would also like to thank everyone who come to our informal wedding reception at the Royal Palm Club. It has been absolutely wonderful to get to know all of you and we hope to see you again soon at some point!
And finally, thanks to Sir George & Lady Judy Martin, Gordon Young and Clare Catchpole for essentially making it happen. Nothing would have even gotten off the ground if not for all the support, belief and conviction towards this inspiring project. And best wishes to Rebecca - I'm starting to get a bit envious of the wonderful year which I'm certain is lying ahead of you! And thanks to all my blog readers whom I hope have managed to enthral and entertain in some small way or another - I hope you've had as much fun reading it as I have been writing it. Here's till the next time I find myself on the Emerald Isle!
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Mud & Slopes
On my final full day in Montserrat, I decided to take on something which I always wanted but never got the chance to - tackling the tallest peak in the Centre Hills, Katy Hill. According to the Montserrat Tourist Board website, they mention that "you will definitely need a guide" and "hikers should be prepared for a very strenuous experience, as well as mud and moisture in the Katy Hill cloud forest". As such, I managed to cajole Paddy to take Gerren and myself up the Katy Hill North trail, which is the most direct way up and down the summit.
Little did I know that I was to end up embarking on the steepest hiking trail I've ever done. Hiking seemed like an inappropriate term in this case - towards the end of the trail, we were scrambling up 60-degree angle slopes and traversing 2-foot wide ridges with 80-degree drops on both sides. It was certainly not for the faint of heart - indeed, I'm surprised that over all these years no one (that I know of, at least) has fallen off! The trail was extremely steep and uneven throughout, and coming down was more of exercise of sliding down on your bum and hoping that the wet, slippery mud doesn't send you flying off the side of the hill.
Nonetheless it was rewarding work, despite only being able to catch glimpses of the stunning scenery through gaps in canopy, and with no distinct summit marker it was a little hard not to put off the "oh, so this is it?" feeling. Should you ever visit Montserrat and decide to embark on this trail, be prepared!
With Montserrat being such a hilly island, hiking certainly is a great way to tour the island and soak in the views from the numerous vantage points scattered about. Indeed, Monty has more cliffs than beaches, giving it its imposing character when seen from air.
Little did I know that I was to end up embarking on the steepest hiking trail I've ever done. Hiking seemed like an inappropriate term in this case - towards the end of the trail, we were scrambling up 60-degree angle slopes and traversing 2-foot wide ridges with 80-degree drops on both sides. It was certainly not for the faint of heart - indeed, I'm surprised that over all these years no one (that I know of, at least) has fallen off! The trail was extremely steep and uneven throughout, and coming down was more of exercise of sliding down on your bum and hoping that the wet, slippery mud doesn't send you flying off the side of the hill.
Nonetheless it was rewarding work, despite only being able to catch glimpses of the stunning scenery through gaps in canopy, and with no distinct summit marker it was a little hard not to put off the "oh, so this is it?" feeling. Should you ever visit Montserrat and decide to embark on this trail, be prepared!
Making our way back down the muddy trail.
Taking a scenery break.
View of the north end of Montserrat from the slopes of Katy Hill.
With Montserrat being such a hilly island, hiking certainly is a great way to tour the island and soak in the views from the numerous vantage points scattered about. Indeed, Monty has more cliffs than beaches, giving it its imposing character when seen from air.
Monday, August 6, 2012
Onwards & Forwards
Becky previously trained as a chorister and has extensive experience leading choirs. She also plays the piano and has musical directed productions with Newcastle University. I am excited to see her carry out the continuation of education and outreach work in Montserrat and I am sure her presence will be a huge inspiration to students and the wider community!
Becky will also be maintaining her own blog about her endeavours in Monty, so stay tuned!
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Puppies & Shelters
And now, my first post after returning back to the mainland. It's been a busy week and a half settling back in, what with the extremely hot weather here in London which did make me feel like as though I never left the Caribbean at all! My last few days in Montserrat now seem like a bit of a surreal blur to me - though I do remember lots of frantic packing, lots of rum, and lots of karaoke.
I will still keep this blog up and running for a bit - there were so many delightful experiences in Montserrat that I still have yet to write about, so I reckon this will be a nice sort of retrospective take on what was a completely brilliant and unforgettable experience for me. Having settled back into the big city life has been easier than I thought, though - guess I do miss my creature comforts such as well-stocked supermarkets and lightning fast broadband after all.
During my time in Montserrat, I came into contact with and met plenty of people, local or otherwise, who constantly strive hard to contribute and better the community of this tiny island. One such person was Emmy Aston, who along with her partner Andrew Myers, have been working endlessly to keep the local animal shelter MAPS - Montserrat Animal Protection Society - running. (You can read more about my first visit to MAPS early on during my time in Montserrat here.)
Their tireless effort towards looking after lost, abandoned and mistreated animals have inspired Montserratians and expats alike to help out in the responsible adopting and fostering of animals in need, providing a safe and comfortable environment for them. About a month before I left, MAPS came upon a litter of five puppies which had to fostered (along with their mum) at private residences, away from the shelter, as they were still too little.
You can follow MAPS for all their updated canine and feline ongoings on Facebook at http://is.gd/pOvpAU. They still have puppies looking for loving, caring homes. If you're interested you can contact Emmy at +1 (664) 491-7807 or +1 (664) 496-7807.
I will still keep this blog up and running for a bit - there were so many delightful experiences in Montserrat that I still have yet to write about, so I reckon this will be a nice sort of retrospective take on what was a completely brilliant and unforgettable experience for me. Having settled back into the big city life has been easier than I thought, though - guess I do miss my creature comforts such as well-stocked supermarkets and lightning fast broadband after all.
During my time in Montserrat, I came into contact with and met plenty of people, local or otherwise, who constantly strive hard to contribute and better the community of this tiny island. One such person was Emmy Aston, who along with her partner Andrew Myers, have been working endlessly to keep the local animal shelter MAPS - Montserrat Animal Protection Society - running. (You can read more about my first visit to MAPS early on during my time in Montserrat here.)
Their tireless effort towards looking after lost, abandoned and mistreated animals have inspired Montserratians and expats alike to help out in the responsible adopting and fostering of animals in need, providing a safe and comfortable environment for them. About a month before I left, MAPS came upon a litter of five puppies which had to fostered (along with their mum) at private residences, away from the shelter, as they were still too little.
Meet the enthusiastic lot.
Puppy playtime.
Looking for a home.
Quickest chow time ever.
You can follow MAPS for all their updated canine and feline ongoings on Facebook at http://is.gd/pOvpAU. They still have puppies looking for loving, caring homes. If you're interested you can contact Emmy at +1 (664) 491-7807 or +1 (664) 496-7807.
Thursday, July 12, 2012
Islands & Treks
Having now almost completed my stint here in Montserrat, I have been recently reading up more about the other British Overseas Territories and trying to get a feel of the infrastructure of music education in other OTs. My work here has been, if not inspiring for the students, then very much so for myself. And one of the long-term ideas that I've allowed to fester in my mind has been one that involves collaboration amongst music students in all the different OTs around the world.
Of course, I am certain the potential groundwork seems massive - but having lived in a small(ish) island community, leading and supporting music education schemes, I must admit it is very relentless but rewarding work. Montserrat is only but one of the 14 OTs around the world, ranging from large, populated islands like Bermuda and the Cayman Islands - both well known for tourism and the occasional tax evasion - to smaller, isolated islands such as the Falkland Islands and Pitcairn Islands.
At pop. 67 (2011 est.), Pitcairn is the least populous jurisdiction in the world. The main island is the only inhabited one, with three other small islands making up the group of Pitcairn Islands. With no airstrip and a nearly-perpetually tumultuous bay, the only access to the island is an overnight journey by sea from the other nearest landmass, Mangareva, French Polynesia - 300 miles away. The regular ship that services the island (bringing island stores and occasionally, tourists) makes only two return trips every three months.
There is only one school on the island (pre-school and primary), with what I guess appears to be between 5-7 pupils overseen by a qualified teacher appointed from New Zealand. Each teaching contract in Pitcairn lasts for two years, and other duties include editing the Pitcairn Miscellany, a monthly newsletter filled with island happenings, ship arrivals and local gossip.
And it's this newsletter that I have been rather absorbed with recently - it's like reading a local newspaper about a family living in a somewhat Swiss Family Robinson-esque fashion. Add that to Pitcairn's somewhat illustrious history - Pitcairners are mostly descendants of the Bounty mutineers and the Tahitians who accompanied them - and charming isolation, I have been quite fascinated with the inner workings of such a close-knit community. Which brings me back to the idea of possibly setting up some form of collaborative project with the students on Pitcairn, perhaps starting with my new students in my upcoming job at St John's next academic year.
For those who might be interested in a glimpse of a country populated by only (approx.) 67 people, sharing a newly-upgraded 1 Mbps satellite internet connection and living with 14-hour electricity cycle per day and only one privately-owned car on the island, you can read the latest copy of the Pitcairn Miscellany which I have uploaded here. Regular subscription costs US$15 per year. Pitcairn is now trying to expand tourism to the island, reaching out to the numerous cruise ships that sometimes call whilst traversing the Atlantic. However, access to the bay is extremely weather-dependant and it's never a guarantee that you will be able to set foot on the island after your lengthy journey.
Of course, if you think the work gossip in your office building was bad enough, think again. Pitcairn is also no stranger to controversy, having come into the spotlight for the 2004 sexual assault trials where charges were laid against seven men living on the island and six living abroad, including the island's mayor at that time. All but one of the defendants were found guilty, some with multiple counts of sexual attacks of children, and were housed in a converted prison set up by the British government. Particular consideration in sentencing had to be given due to the fact that if too many able-bodied men were incarcerated for too long, the island would essentially cease to function properly. Talk about a serious case of cabin fever.
The beguiling charm of Pitcairn still holds steadfast, however, and short of obtaining my own sailing yacht and traipse across the Atlantic, I shall content myself to the role of couch traveller and perhaps get to work on seeing that collaborative project through. Who knows, if this is successful, the next step could be Ascension Island (pop. 1,122) or Tristan da Cunha (pop. 264). Interestingly, Tristan da Cunha, while being the most isolated inhabited island in the world, already has an ongoing music collaborative project between the island's school and amateur composers in England, led by a certain music teacher named Tony Triggs.
In other more local news, I have been doing a bit more trekking around Monty, doing some last-minute exploration of nature before I leave. Last Sunday, Sonja kindly agreed to take me on the trail to the dry waterfall, with Pepper tagging along. It was a mildly easy, 3-hour return trek which culminated with the dry waterfall looming over a the wide and rocky Soldier Ghaut - most impressive. A few photos from the morning.
This Friday, Em, Gerren & I are attempting to trek up Katy Hill, the tallest peak in the Centre Hills. Trés bien.
Of course, I am certain the potential groundwork seems massive - but having lived in a small(ish) island community, leading and supporting music education schemes, I must admit it is very relentless but rewarding work. Montserrat is only but one of the 14 OTs around the world, ranging from large, populated islands like Bermuda and the Cayman Islands - both well known for tourism and the occasional tax evasion - to smaller, isolated islands such as the Falkland Islands and Pitcairn Islands.
At pop. 67 (2011 est.), Pitcairn is the least populous jurisdiction in the world. The main island is the only inhabited one, with three other small islands making up the group of Pitcairn Islands. With no airstrip and a nearly-perpetually tumultuous bay, the only access to the island is an overnight journey by sea from the other nearest landmass, Mangareva, French Polynesia - 300 miles away. The regular ship that services the island (bringing island stores and occasionally, tourists) makes only two return trips every three months.
There is only one school on the island (pre-school and primary), with what I guess appears to be between 5-7 pupils overseen by a qualified teacher appointed from New Zealand. Each teaching contract in Pitcairn lasts for two years, and other duties include editing the Pitcairn Miscellany, a monthly newsletter filled with island happenings, ship arrivals and local gossip.
And it's this newsletter that I have been rather absorbed with recently - it's like reading a local newspaper about a family living in a somewhat Swiss Family Robinson-esque fashion. Add that to Pitcairn's somewhat illustrious history - Pitcairners are mostly descendants of the Bounty mutineers and the Tahitians who accompanied them - and charming isolation, I have been quite fascinated with the inner workings of such a close-knit community. Which brings me back to the idea of possibly setting up some form of collaborative project with the students on Pitcairn, perhaps starting with my new students in my upcoming job at St John's next academic year.
For those who might be interested in a glimpse of a country populated by only (approx.) 67 people, sharing a newly-upgraded 1 Mbps satellite internet connection and living with 14-hour electricity cycle per day and only one privately-owned car on the island, you can read the latest copy of the Pitcairn Miscellany which I have uploaded here. Regular subscription costs US$15 per year. Pitcairn is now trying to expand tourism to the island, reaching out to the numerous cruise ships that sometimes call whilst traversing the Atlantic. However, access to the bay is extremely weather-dependant and it's never a guarantee that you will be able to set foot on the island after your lengthy journey.
Of course, if you think the work gossip in your office building was bad enough, think again. Pitcairn is also no stranger to controversy, having come into the spotlight for the 2004 sexual assault trials where charges were laid against seven men living on the island and six living abroad, including the island's mayor at that time. All but one of the defendants were found guilty, some with multiple counts of sexual attacks of children, and were housed in a converted prison set up by the British government. Particular consideration in sentencing had to be given due to the fact that if too many able-bodied men were incarcerated for too long, the island would essentially cease to function properly. Talk about a serious case of cabin fever.
The beguiling charm of Pitcairn still holds steadfast, however, and short of obtaining my own sailing yacht and traipse across the Atlantic, I shall content myself to the role of couch traveller and perhaps get to work on seeing that collaborative project through. Who knows, if this is successful, the next step could be Ascension Island (pop. 1,122) or Tristan da Cunha (pop. 264). Interestingly, Tristan da Cunha, while being the most isolated inhabited island in the world, already has an ongoing music collaborative project between the island's school and amateur composers in England, led by a certain music teacher named Tony Triggs.
In other more local news, I have been doing a bit more trekking around Monty, doing some last-minute exploration of nature before I leave. Last Sunday, Sonja kindly agreed to take me on the trail to the dry waterfall, with Pepper tagging along. It was a mildly easy, 3-hour return trek which culminated with the dry waterfall looming over a the wide and rocky Soldier Ghaut - most impressive. A few photos from the morning.
Sonja ducking under the two 'kissing' trees.
Arrival at the dry 100-ft waterfall.
This Friday, Em, Gerren & I are attempting to trek up Katy Hill, the tallest peak in the Centre Hills. Trés bien.
Wednesday, July 11, 2012
Dash & Splash
My last two weeks here in Montserrat have been proving to be just as busy, starting with the final assembly for Montserrat Secondary School held at the cultural centre on Tuesday the 3rd, followed by the graduation ceremony for the Form 5s the day after. It was a formal enough affair, with the MSS cadet corps doing a procession with an inspection of the graduands. The choir sang, along with a MSS dance ensemble and of course, lots of speeches. The valedictorian Tiffannie Skerritt - it was quite an American-styled graduation - also got awarded an iPad for her hard work. A pretty good deal if you ask me!
Over the weekend just past was the inaugural Belham Valley Dash 'n' Splash, organized by the Montserrat Running Club. A 1.8km dash down the Belham Valley, navigating past obstacles such as pyroclastic hills and scattered brush, before approaching the Old Road Bay and crossing the finishing line by placing any part of your body in the sea. Of course, stylistic 'splashdowns' were encouraged, and also rewarded.
Oh, and all of this done in fancy dress (of course)!
And so, in the spirit of Montserrat Secondary School and as a reflection of my work there, I decided to dress up in a MSS student uniform. Given the logic that long trousers would impede my performance, I therefore made the strategic decision to wear a female uniform instead. I came in 6th out of twenty-five, so I guess it paid off. Unfortunately, however, I was just ahead of the winner who made (and subsequently won the prize for) the best entry into the sea. As such I had the privilege of turning back, only to see him thrashing butt naked into the Caribbean sea towards my face. Thanks Andy.
The remainder of the photos can be found on my Facebook album at http://is.gd/RCVxi0. Be sure to take a look at some of the hilarious finishes!
MSS end-of-year assembly at the Montserrat Cultural Centre.
Form 5 graduands getting ready for inspection.
The Montserrat Secondary School cadet corps.
Putting on the final touches with a bit of help.
The Montserrat Youth Choir in their final performance with me.
Over the weekend just past was the inaugural Belham Valley Dash 'n' Splash, organized by the Montserrat Running Club. A 1.8km dash down the Belham Valley, navigating past obstacles such as pyroclastic hills and scattered brush, before approaching the Old Road Bay and crossing the finishing line by placing any part of your body in the sea. Of course, stylistic 'splashdowns' were encouraged, and also rewarded.
Oh, and all of this done in fancy dress (of course)!
And so, in the spirit of Montserrat Secondary School and as a reflection of my work there, I decided to dress up in a MSS student uniform. Given the logic that long trousers would impede my performance, I therefore made the strategic decision to wear a female uniform instead. I came in 6th out of twenty-five, so I guess it paid off. Unfortunately, however, I was just ahead of the winner who made (and subsequently won the prize for) the best entry into the sea. As such I had the privilege of turning back, only to see him thrashing butt naked into the Caribbean sea towards my face. Thanks Andy.
All decked out and ready to go.
"If you get injured, then it's your fault."
The wide variety of fancy dress everyone turned up in.
The remainder of the photos can be found on my Facebook album at http://is.gd/RCVxi0. Be sure to take a look at some of the hilarious finishes!
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